Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Deep in the Heart of Texas


Last weekend, I took off for a long weekend trip, not to the Hamptons or the Jersey shore or any of the other typical get-out-of-the-city-for-the-weekend jaunts that one is likely to hear about now that we’re well into the post-Memorial Day summer season. Instead of hopping on the Hamptons Jitney or the Garden State Parkway, I hopped on a plane to Texas.

Now, the great state of Texas is not necessarily the first place that comes to mind when considering a long weekend—but, after my visit, I’m convinced that it should be. The destination of this particular long weekend was San Antonio, the city in south Texas known for its Mexican heritage, its restaurant-riddled River Walk, and—who can forget?—the Alamo.

When I landed in San Antonio, I received a warm greeting from the locals and an even warmer greeting from the weather. Though it was only early afternoon, temperatures were already in the mid-80s and were expected to climb to 100 later in the day, a welcome respite from the chilly and rainy weather that has plagued New York this spring. I happily shed the sweater I had been wearing on the plane and headed to San Antonio’s downtown area, where I checked into the historic Gunter Hotel before setting out to explore the area.

As I mentioned, one of San Antonio’s most well-known attractions is the River Walk, and for good reason. The River Walk consists of a series of walkways that run along both sides of the San Antonio River one level below the city’s main streets. Connected by footbridges and open only to pedestrians, the River Walk is a picturesque slice of San Antonio, with lush flowering plants dotting the winding paths and towering trees reaching across the lazy river, giving the area a quaint, almost Mediterranean feel in spots. The River Walk is home to dozens of restaurants, bars, and shops, making it popular among tourists and locals alike and the perfect place for outdoor dining—especially if you’re in the mood for Tex-Mex and margaritas, which I certainly was.

While some might tire of Mexican food after a few days, that problem does not apply to me. Over the course of the weekend, I had Grand Marnier margaritas and sizzling fajitas on an upstairs balcony at Café Ole, a River Walk staple whose claim to fame is—no surprise here—margaritas and fajitas. I munched on chips and salsa at most every meal. And I had more margaritas and amazing enchiladas at Mi Tierra, a restaurant/bakery/café in downtown San Antonio that is open 24 hours and features a tequila bar and a display case full of tantalizing Mexican treats, including pastries, sweet breads, and heaps of assorted cookies.

In between eating and strolling the River Walk, we managed to squeeze in a road trip to Austin. Only an hour away from San Antonio, the state capital is a lively city with a vibrant music scene and a hip country feel. Austin also boasts a gorgeous capitol building, and last weekend it featured some sort of biker fest, with gleaming, muscled-up motorcycles and their very colorful riders all over the downtown area. Or maybe that was just typical Austin.

Surrounding San Antonio and Austin is the Texas Hill Country, which is full not only of cattle ranches and family farms, but of crops of wineries as well. On the way back to San Antonio, we first stopped at a farm stand to sample some homemade peach cobbler. Heaped on a paper plate and topped with a large dollop of vanilla ice cream, it was rich and gooey and utterly delicious. Our fingers still a bit sticky, we then managed to visit two or three wineries to do some tasting. There were Reislings and Chenin Blancs, Muscats and Merlots, which we sampled to the backdrop of the rolling Texas hills and sun-drenched fields. We spotted plenty of cattle and various other forms of livestock, and even sipped glasses of wine while spying on a nearby family of cows.

Back in San Antonio, the sun-soaked days gave way to warm, breezy nights, and the sounds of live jazz and roaming mariachi bands brought the River Walk to life. Each night we strolled up and down the meandering walkway before stopping for drinks and jazz at the legendary Jim Cullum’s Landing, founded in 1963 by—you guessed it—jazz great Jim Cullum. It was the perfect way to end a day full of sun, sightseeing, and lots and lots of food.

And Texas, from the San Antonio River Walk and the Hill Country wineries to the bustling streets of Austin and the welcoming heat, proved the perfect way to get away for a weekend—or maybe even longer.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Summer in the Park

Summer is just around the corner, and that means that a slew of fabulous events are right around the corner as well—literally and figuratively—as another season of concerts, comedy shows, orchestra, opera, and, of course, Shakespeare is about to kick off in Central Park. So pack a picnic, grab a blanket, and funnel your favorite bottle of Riesling into a thermos, then head over to the park to check out these fantastic—and, for the most part, free—events.

SummerStage
The 20th anniversary of Central Park’s SummerStage festival kicks off this Friday, June 12 at 8pm with a performance by singer and songwriter Josh Ritter, who will be accompanied by the New York Pops. Here are some more of this season’s highlights:

June 17 at 7:30pm - Readings from bestselling authors Wally Lamb and Zöe Heller
June 19 at 8pm – Comedy night with Gabriel Iglesias and Pablo Francisco
June 25 at 5pm – Reggae with 311, Ziggy Marley, and The Expendables
July 8 at 7pm – Argentinian and Brazilian artists Juana Molina, Curumin, and El G
July 9 at 5:30pm – The unique beatbox sounds of Matisyahu with Umphrey’s McGee
July 13 at 8pm – The Metropolitan Opera’s Summer Recital
July 18 at 3pm – Hip-hop with Q-Tip, Chester French, Little Dragon, and Benji B
August 1 at 7pm – The acoustic sounds of M. Ward and Nels Cline, with Yuka Honda and Dougie Bowne
August 3 at 7:30pm – A music and film screening with Béla Fleck and Toumani Diabaté
August 14 at 8pm – An evening of dance with the Wheeldon Company and musical guest Martha Wainwright
August 16 at 3pm – Alternative rockers Dinosaur Jr., The Walkmen, and Saviours

SummerStage events are held at Rumsey Playfield, accessible by the 69th Street and 5th Avenue entrance to the park. While most events are free, some serve as benefit concerts for the season and do require advance tickets. Click here for more information and the full lineup.

The New York Philharmonic
On Friday, July 17 at 8pm, the renowned New York Philharmonic will perform its annual free summer concert at the Great Lawn bandshell, which is easily accessible by the 5th Avenue entrance to the park between 85th and 86th streets. If you’d like seats near the stage, plan to arrive at least two hours in advance. And be sure to stay until the very end, as a fireworks show will follow the performance.

Naumburg Orchestral Concerts
Located just south of Bethesda Terrace, the Naumburg Bandshell has hosted such legendary performers as Duke Ellington, The Grateful Dead, Irving Berlin, and John Phillip Sousa. This summer the historic spot will host another season of free classical music concerts, all featuring young composers and conductors in an effort to promote new talent. Here’s the lineup:

June 23: The Knights orchestral group with acclaimed violinist Lara St. John Lodin
July 7: The Naumburg Orchestra featuring clarinet soloist Alexander Fiterstein
July 21: The Jupiter Symphony Chamber players featuring clarinet player Vadim Lando and cellist David Requiro
August 4: Grammy-nominated wind quintet Imani Winds

All performances begin at 7:30pm. For more information, click here.

Shakespeare in the Park
Another season of a favorite Central Park event kicks off tonight with the premiere of the legendary bard’s Twelfth Night, starring Anne Hathaway. Twelfth Night runs through July 12, and then Euripedes’ The Bacchae begins August 11 and runs through August 30. Performances are Tuesdays through Sundays at 8pm. Tickets are free and can be obtained starting at 1pm on the day of the performance at the Delacorte Theater, or online via a virtual ticket line. For more information, click here.

Happy summer!