American Woman: One Last Weekend at the Met

Fashion, history, and high society—can you think of a better combination? If not, be sure to visit the Met this weekend, where the exhibit American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity is on display for just a few more days. Featuring the fashions worn by American women from 1890 to 1940, the exhibit explores the evolution of the modern American woman, the influences on her style, and how that style affected her role in society.

American Woman spans a series of rooms in the Cantor Exhibition Hall: one room per decade, each donned with the clothing and décor that would have been in style among the foremost society women of the era—think the Gwyneth Paltrows and Jennifer Anistons of the last century, as these were the women who set the trends that trickled down to influence the rest of society. Yet each decade is an example not just of the clothing worn by the upper crust, but of the style archetype that defined the time period.

The first room—the 1890s—focuses on the Heiress. These women were American society’s most elite. Their wealth and status were derived from their families, and they strove to imitate European royalty—and in some cases, become royalty themselves. The room is decorated like an upscale parlor and filled with long, lavish gowns adorned with the finest lace, beading, and detailing of the day. The lush fabrics still hold a sheen and seem as though they could come to life at any moment to swish across the room or swirl to a waltz. This was one of my favorite rooms.


Moving on to the 1900s room, however, the ideal clearly changes. The gowns are replaced by long skirts and button-front blouses with a simple, sporty, yet still decidedly feminine look. Set to a seascape, this room marks the era of the Gibson Girl, the more natural, fit woman who swims, cycles, plays tennis, and enjoys the outdoors. Though the outfits are very different from what would be considered sporty today, the ideal they represent is a lot like the strong, athletic ideal that still defines the modern American woman.



Next up is the Bohemian, the artistic woman who, from 1910 to 1920, wore long, silken gowns with Eastern-inspired details. This was the most surprising of the exhibit rooms, as the robe-like gowns—loose, flowing, and uninhibited—are not a style typically associated with the early 20th century—if anything, I would have pegged them for the attire of artsy types in the late ’60s and early ’70s. Yet also featured is the more recognizable style of the Suffragette. While they marched for the right to vote, American women donned knee-length skirts and no-nonsense jackets, showing the world that they were serious about their cause, yet still—and most importantly—female.



The exhibit’s most recognizable style is found in the 1920s room. Empowered with the right to vote, American women tossed off their inhibitions in the 1920s, drinking, smoking, bobbing their hair, and idealizing the slim, boyish figure of the Flapper. Thin, shifty silk dresses with low-slung waists and sparkly beading exchanged the strictures of femininity for a style that left women feeling freer and sexier.


My favorite room was next. In the 1930s, American women idealized the Screen Siren, epitomized by movie stars like Rita Hayworth and Lena Horne. The room devoted to the style of these legendary ladies is filled with long, classically-inspired gowns that reinstate a more mature, feminine ideal after the young, boyish look of the Flapper. High waists, gathered fabric, and slinky skirts exude glamour and grace, and solid blacks, whites, and neutrals evoke the colors of the early cinema. This room spills into another, in which the women themselves are on display via a series of screens looping film clips from the era.



To exit, viewers cross a foyer-like area where modern-day images are projected on white walls to the soundtrack of Lenny Kravitz’s “American Woman.” The montage is somewhat mesmerizing, flashing photos of very recognizable women—from icons like Jackie Kennedy and Grace Kelly to pop stars like Madonna and Lady Gaga—that show the fruits of the style evolution captured in the exhibit.

Though the exhibit could have been a bit heavier on the history side, its short introductions at the entrance to each room make it easy to breeze through quickly—though the stunning styles will most likely entice you to stay longer.

Whatever your style, I highly recommend a visit to American Woman before it closes this Sunday. You’ll be fashionably late.

All photos copyright The Metropolitan Museum of Art.